‘Cosmoss’, the lifestyle brand by Kate Moss, launched to predictable fawning from the fashion world earlier this month.
What the brand says: (strap yourselves in)
This is literally ‘The Story’ on the website. ‘Soulful, sensual, self-aware. COSMOSS draws on the extraordinary life experience of Kate Moss — someone whose career and image has touched on and influenced so many others and yet has taken her own, rich journey of transformation gradually and privately.
COSMOSS is a celebration of every day exactly as it is, with all its imperfections. Each product has been meticulously crafted with wellbeing in mind, using potent, natural substances. Each ritual opens a door to balance, restoration, and love; each fragrance and infusion recentres and completes.
COSMOSS is self-care created for life’s modern journeys to make them beautiful, mesmerising and magical.’
What you need to know:
This did not make my journey feel mesmerising or magical.
Who is it for?
People who worship at the altar of Kate Moss, have no problems with their skin, and have money.
You need this if..
You do not need this. By all means, buy it if you want it, but you do not need it.
You don’t need this if..
You are serious about skincare.
Face Cleanser, 100ml – £52.00
They say:
‘Rich and luxurious, our Cleanser gently removes impurities and makeup without stripping the skin’s natural protective barrier. Moss extract hydrates and enhances the firmness and elasticity of the skin. Mildly scented for a complete sensorial experience, the formula rinses off easily, leaving skin soft, refreshed and nourished.’
CH says:
Firstly, this is not ‘mildly scented’. It is one of the most highly fragranced products to be released in recent times. A cleanser is obviously limited in what it can do, and there is nothing in this ingredient list to suggest that this cleanser will ‘enhance the firmness and elasticity’ of your skin.
Key Ingredients
Moss extract
Cannabidiol
Bakuchiol
Rosehip Oil
Nettle Extract
INCI
Aqua/Water/Eau, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Propylene Glycol, Propanediol, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum (Fragrance), Benzyl Alcohol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Chloride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Rubus Idaeus (Raspberry) Seed Oil, Polypodium Vulgare Rhizome (Common Polypody) Extract, Dehydroacetic Acid, Cetraria Islandica (Iceland Moss) Thallus Extract, Sphagnum Magellanicum (Peat Moss) Extract, Rosa Moschata (Musk Rose) Seed Oil, Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Bakuchiol, Glycerin, Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters, Citric Acid, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Cannabidiol, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Leaf Extract, Magnolol, Honokiol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Limonene.
Face Cream, 50ml – £95.00
They say:
‘Rich, nourishing, moisturising: introducing the revolutionary Face Cream, which rejuvenates the skin and stimulates natural collagen production. It absorbs quickly and deeply into the skin, dramatically decreasing the dulling effects of oxidative stress for a healthy glow. High in antioxidants, this anti-ageing moisturiser reduces wrinkles and fine lines to help achieve plump, well-rested skin.’
CH says:
There is nothing revolutionary about this moisturiser. And the claims are designed to give the impression that it will do far more for your skin that it is scientifically capable of, and it is fragranced to the max.
‘Moss extract complex combines three wild Icelandic plants (lichen, moss and fern) that nourish and hydrate the skin, restoring smoothness, firmness and elasticity. It is an effective anti-ageing moisturiser designed to soothe irritated, sensitive skin. Studies have shown the extract can rejuvenate the skin by 20 years in four weeks.’
Studies on an extract have no bearing on the final formula used as the product. In fairness to Cosmoss, a lot of brands make these claims. Doesn’t make it ok. However, if you do find that you look 20 years younger after using this cream for four weeks, be sure to let me know. Love that for you.
‘Cannabidiol interacts with receptors in the nervous system to help you regain balance. Used on the skin, it is known for its soothing and sebum-regulating properties.’
This is intentionally worded to put the CBD association in your mind, but used topically, CBD will not interact with your nervous system in any way, and it is totally irresponsible to speak of it in this fashion.
Key Ingredients
Moss Extract Complex
Cannabidiol
Bakuchiol
Hemp Oil, Rosehip Oil, Shea Butter and Avocado Oil
Nettle Extract
Niacinamide
Vitamin E
Burdock Root Extract
INCI
Aqua/Water/Eau, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Propanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Parfum (Fragrance), Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Stearyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phytosterols, Carbomer, Squalane, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Gluconate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hydroxide, Niacinamide, Rosa Moschata (Musk Rose) Seed Oil, Cannabis Sativa (Hemp) Seed Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Bakuchiol, Polypodium Vulgare (Common Polypody) Rhizome Extract, Polysorbate 60, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Metabisulfite, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sorbitan Stearate, Olive Oil Polyglyceryl-6 Esters, Cetraria Islandica (Iceland Moss) Thallus Extract, Sphagnum Magellanicum (Peat Moss) Extract, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Tocopherol, Cannabidiol, Urtica Dioica (Nettle) Leaf Extract, Magnolol, Honokiol, Citric Acid, Arctium Lappa (Burdock) Root Extract, Phosphoric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool.
Golden Nectar CBD & Collagen Oil, 30ml – £105.00
They say:
The Golden Nectar is the ultimate antioxidant oil, bringing a holistic approach to your everyday skin care. It kickstarts the natural process of skin rejuvenation, supporting deep regeneration to soothe irritated skin and leave it softer and plumper to the touch. It is an everyday indulgence that takes care of your skin, body, mind and soul.’
CH says:
The oil is the better sku in the range. Mainly because it’s unscented, doesn’t give me a headache, and feels calming on the skin. It does give a glow, but that’s to be expected of any oil. Alas, yet again with the claims..
‘Cannabidiol (1000 mg) interacts with receptors in the nervous system to help you regain balance. Used on the skin, it is known for its soothing and sebum-regulating properties.’ Repeat ad nauseam..
As previously mentioned, what it does when you ingest it has nothing to do with how it reacts on your face. With that said, Kate Moss ingests this in this video: Vogue/Cosmoss
Her website says this: ‘The product is not medicinal device.’ – That’s no typo. That’s what it says. I’m none the wiser.
‘Mythical Tears of Chios is a resin obtained from the mastic tree (Pistacia lentiscus), native to the Greek island of Chios which stimulates natural collagen production. It reactivates cells and detoxifies the skin, so it appears younger, plumper and firmer.’
‘Reactivates cells’. Does it perform CPR? Depending on where you read about this product, it either detoxifies, reactivates your cells, stimulates your collagen, works as an antioxidant, controls your sebum and/or makes you a brew.
Key Ingredients
Cannabidiol (1000mg)
Mythical tears of chios (also known as mastic gum)
Rosemary extract
Chia seed
INCI
Caprylic/Capric (Coconut) Triglyceride, Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry) Seed Oil, Cannabidiol, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract, Salvia Hispanica (Chia) Seed Extract, Pistacia Lentiscus (Mastic) Gum.
*Also: the website inci list (as listed above) omits the word ‘alcohol’ from the oil description. The actual inci of the product is below.
Sacred Mist, 100ml – £120.00
Just to be clear, this is a perfume, not a facial mist. It is very masculine, and very strong. The packaging is beautiful.
And the teas are rank.
Final thoughts:
I will always defend anyone’s rights to make whatever they like, and charge whatever they like for it. Making a range is not the problem. And skincare is clearly in fashion with celebs. It’s this year’s tequila. The cost is not the problem. Fill your boots.
The claims, marketing and apparent complete lack of a regulatory and compliance officer overseeing these projects is what I find perplexing/annoying/irritating. The frivolous ‘not taking our industry seriously’ is where my problem really lies. We are an industry full of trained, qualified and quantified experts with proven track records that already have to fight against the misogyny clearly displayed not only in our government, but the media. Feel free to join us, by all means. But you need to meet us high up at our level, not invent your own ‘whimsical’ one that fuels the distrust and disregard for something that we all love so dearly.
And I repeat: Just because you can make a skincare line, doesn’t always mean you should.
It’s in Harrods. Knock yourself out.
